ProtonMail

I've used Gmail for many years, and have been pleased with its trouble-free service and storage capacity. But one concern that has always lurked in the back of my mind is their access to my emails. I don't send anything by Gmail that I would be concerned about someone at Google reading, but I have read that Google keeps a copy of all receipts. Whether this is true or not, I don't know, but don't like this idea. Here is a quote from an article I just read: "Google also scans all the receipts you receive in Gmail and stores the data for years, even if your purchases are not from Google."

I just read -- in the above-referenced article -- about the advantages of using another free email service: ProtonMail. If you have an interest in reading the article, you may read it here. Here's another quote from the article that might get your attention: "Much of Gmail’s popularity stems from the fact that it costs no money to use. It is, however, a prime example of the old adage that “if you’re not paying for a service, then you are the service.” Google’s entire business model is to invade its users’ privacy in order to profit from targeted ads." If this is true, how does ProtonMail provide a "free" service, the question comes to mind? They do offer upgraded plans for a fee, so maybe this is where they make enough money to continue providing a 'free' email service.

So, I'm going to mull this around in my mind a bit before making a move from Gmail. It is a good article, though. Just passing this thought along for your consideration and cogitation.

Jim Hamm

T-Mobile Home Internet

If you already have a decent internet service, this post may not be of much interest. But, if the T-Mobile signal is strong in your home area, here is an article that may be of interest -- home internet with download speeds up to 100 Mbps. You can check to see how good T-Mobile is in your area by filling out a brief form on the website. At $60/month, the price seems reasonable --especially if your present internet service isn't so good.

Jim Hamm

An Apple Energy Commitment

I came across the following blurb, and kudos to Apple for this commitment.

Jim Hamm

Apple announced that they are installing a state-of-the-art solar farm with a huge battery storage system utilizing Tesla batteries. This will provide power to the equivalent of 7000 homes and is part of Apple's commitment to renewable energy. Bravo!

Fastest Browser?

Everyone probably has a favorite browser, and right now mine is Vivaldi. I just like it. Here is an article testing the speed of various browsers, and Vivaldi came in #4. Edge came in #1. I've found the difference in speed of the various browsers to be not of great significance to me. But if speed is important to you, this article may be of interest.

Jim Hamm

Computer Cables

The various kinds of cables connecting to a Mac or PC can be confusing, as this article by Brian Livingston of the "Windows Secrets" Newsletter discusses. This might be an interesting topic for a computer club meeting.

Jim Hamm

It used to be that you could run any old USB cable between just about any two USB ports, and the devices on each end would simply work. But that hasn't been true for a long, long time.

As more and more manufacturers wanted to bring different devices with different needs to market, the standard USB-A cable was lost in the shuffle. Instead, we got a gaggle of novel USB connectors named Mini-A, Mini-B, Micro-A, Micro-B, Apple's similar-but-different Lightning, and more.

The latest connector — USB-C, finalized in 2014 by the USB Implementers Forum (USB-IF) — was supposed to bring these multiple shapes and sizes to an end. The sexy USB-C connector was the bell that got all the PC nerds salivating. USB-C was the first reversible USB connector: there was no "top" or "bottom" side for users to grapple with.

So-called ‘standard’ USB-C cables are a mess whose time is over

Unfortunately, USB-C cables are anything but identical. End users are expected to know the following differences (and more) among the cables:

  • Charging is supported by some USB-C cables, while others support only data.

  • Some USB-C cables can deliver 100 watts of power, while others deliver only 60 watts.

  • DisplayPort monitors are supported by some USB-C cables, but not others.

  • Some USB-C cables have data throughput ratings of 40Gbps, while others are rated for only 20Gpbs, 10Gbps, or even just 5Gbps. (These four speeds correspond with specs that, in reverse chronological order, are called USB4, USB 3.2 Gen 2x2, USB 3.2 Gen 2, and USB 3.2 Gen 1. Confusing, eh? Tripp-Lite has more details.)

Cheap USB-C cables gave the spec a bad name. In 2015 and 2016, Google engineer Benson Leung repeatedly posted tests showing that some laptops couldn't be charged by certain cables, contrary to what their makers claimed. One cable was so badly designed that it instantly fried a Chromebook Pixel laptop's two USB-C ports, the machine's embedded controller, and two USB power-delivery analyzers. That was enough to render each device useless, as described in an ArsTechnica article.

Even Apple was forced to recall, in early 2016, some USB-C charging cables it had shipped with MacBooks. The cables failed to actually charge the laptops, according to a Guardian article.

Faced with these public-relations disasters, USB-IF launched a new "power delivery compliance plan" in June 2016, as described in an EDN analysis. But the writing was on the wall for this kind of cable anarchy. The next stop on this train would be Thunderbolt.

Thunderbolt cables will eventually eliminate all USB cables

Thunderbolt is a data-transfer and power-delivery spec that has been shepherded into existence by Intel since Thunderbolt 1 appeared in the 2011 MacBook Pro. That version, and Thunderbolt 2 in the 2013 MacBook Pro, used a Mini DisplayPort connector. Both versions 1 and 2 were proprietary to Intel and required manufacturers to pay for a license

NL-2021-03-08-livingston-thunderbolt4.png

Thunderbolt 3 (TB3) laptops began shipping in late 2015 from Acer, Asus, HP, Dell, Lenovo, Sony, and others. Finally, in May 2017, Intel said it would make Thunderbolt 3 royalty-free. This allowed USB-IF to accept the spec in March 2019 and incorporate it into the latest version of its own standard, which is now called USB4. (There is no space between the letters and the numeral.)

Intel retained compliance rights over Thunderbolt and now attempts to ensure strict device certification for Thunderbolt 4 (TB4), the current spec. (Thunderbolt 4 cables have a symbol and the numeral "4" on the end, as shown in the photo above.) Among other things, devices with TB4 ports have the following requirements:

  • A maximum data-transfer rate of no less than 40Gbps, the same as Thunderbolt 3 ports. (All speeds in this article are theoretical, not actual.)

  • The ability to support two 4K monitors at 60Hz, which can be daisy-chained, or one 8K monitor at 60Hz (TB3 required support for only one 4K monitor).

  • Direct Memory Access protection, to prevent physical Thunderspy attacks that TB3 was susceptible to (this was patched in Windows 10 version 1803 in 2019 and macOS Sierra 10.12.3 in 2017).

  • At least one computer port must support charging (TB4 can deliver up to 100 watts).

  • Support for PCI Express (PCI-e), a common computer data bus, to connect to high-speed devices such as solid-state drives and video-capture devices.

Figure 1, straight from Apple's website, shows the back of a Mac Mini labeled with two "Thunderbolt/USB 4" ports. Apple can't call them "Thunderbolt 4" ports because neither port supports two 4K monitors, as required for compliance.

NL-2021-03-08-livingston-fig-1.png

Figure 1. Apple labels its current Mac Mini (shown above) and MacBook Pro 13 computers as "Thunderbolt/USB 4" ports, not "Thunderbolt 4" ports. Source: Apple Mac Mini and MacBook Pro 13 Web pages

Here’s the shocker: TB3 is better than TB4 for some things

USB-IF finalized USB4 in 2019. USB4, which is a specification, should not be confused with USB-C, which is a hardware connector. USB4 is called "Thunderbolt 4 Light" by industry wags because USB4 is a "loose" standard by comparison. For instance, all Thunderbolt 4 ports must support a 40Gbps data-transfer rate. But a manufacturer can call a device "USB4" if its data-transfer rate is as low as 20Gbps. (USB4 also allows three other protocols: USB 3.2 Gen 2 supports 10Gbps, USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 supports 20Gbps, and USB 3.2 Gen 1 supports only 5Gbps.)

To make matters worse, USB4 computer ports aren't required to work with TB3 or TB4 peripherals. Support is optional. Therefore, a "certified USB4 computer" may or may not work with TB3 or TB4 monitors, docking stations, and hubs.

Buying devices that have TB3- or TB4-certified ports gives you the best shot of having a system that will keep up with greater and greater bandwidth requirements in the years to come.

IMPORTANT: TB3 is faster than TB4 at certain tasks. As mentioned above, the main reason for this is the way each spec implements its PCI Express data bus:

  • Both Thunderbolt 3 and Thunderbolt 4 support data transfers up to 40Gbps.

  • TB4 supports one PCI-e lane, allowing 700 megabytes per second.

  • The older TB3 supports four PCI-e lanes, allowing four times the bandwidth: 2,800 megabytes per second.

  • TB4 devices have fewer PCI-e lanes as a trade-off. The designers of TB4 specified only one lane of PCI-e so that TB4 devices could support as many as three directly connected devices. TB3 supports only one such device.

The speed of PCI-e makes a difference to you only if you use a Thunderbolt cable to connect a solid-state drive or other high-speed external device to a computer. However, it's likely that few manufacturers will build TB4 into such bandwidth-hungry devices. That's because USB Gen 3.2 and USB4 ports and cables can provide similar data-transfer rates at a lower hardware cost.

Sonnet Technologies, an Irvine, California, company, manufactures Thunderbolt 3 and 4 peripherals, such as the forthcoming Echo 11 Thunderbolt 4 Dock (see Figure 2). The "Echo" trademark is unrelated to the "smart speaker" of the same name that Amazon sells. Meanwhile, the "11" in the name refers to the number of ports the dock has, not the version number of the device.

"There will be no Thunderbolt 4 peripherals, except for docks and hubs, because a Thunderbolt 4 peripheral could use only one lane of PCI-e," Sonnet CEO Robert Farnsworth said in a telephone interview.

That doesn't mean either spec is obsolete, Farnsworth explains: "Thunderbolt 3 and Thunderbolt 4 each can do something that the other cannot, so we expect a long life for both."

NL-2021-03-08-livingston-fig-2.png


Figure 2. The Sonnet Technologies Echo 11 Thunderbolt 4 Dock supports 11 ports, including Thunderbolt 4, USB 3.2 Gen 2, and other interfaces. Source: Sonnet Technologies product page

So what's an end user who just wants a fast, reliable system to do? Like everything else, there are complex rules to remember:

  • TB3 and TB4 cables are interchangeable. "You can mix Thunderbolt 3 and Thunderbolt 4 cables and peripherals in any order and they work," Farnsworth explains.

  • There are different lengths of Thunderbolt cables. The standards are:
    — A "passive" TB cable can be only 0.8m (2.6 ft.) for 40Gbps transfers.
    — A "passive" TB cable that's between 1m and 2m supports only 20Gbps.
    — A TB cable with an "active" chipset can be 2m in length and still support 40Gbps.
    — Fiber-optic 40Gbps, TB cables are available in 5m, 10m, and 15m lengths.

  • TB3 and TB4 ports are both fast enough for almost anything you might connect. Devices such as monitors, keyboards, mice, and printers won't outrun a TB3 or TB4 port.

  • Only truly high-speed devices — such as external graphics processing units, SSDs, and the like — need maximum bandwidth. If you buy one of these devices to connect to your computer, you'll probably find that the products on the market use some flavor of USB 3.2, USB4, or TB3.

What type of Thunderbolt port do you really have in your computer?

The final factoid you need to know is what kind of Thunderbolt ports you have in your laptop or other computing device. Just to make you crazy, Thunderbolt ports on PCs are indicated by small lightning-bolt icons, but the version (3, 4, etc.) is not always printed alongside that logo.

The basic rules for Windows PCs and Macs are:

  • Most Windows PCs that were sold in 2016 or later have one or more USB-C ports that will support TB3, TB4, USB 3, and USB4 devices.

  • All Apple computers that were sold in 2016 or later (except MacBook) have USB-C ports that will support TB3 and, when upgraded to Big Sur, will also support TB4 and USB4 devices.

You can determine the support level of a Windows PC using a simple PowerShell command. Sonnet Technologies explains this in a convenient two-page PDF. The document provides the command, as well as listing versions of Thunderbolt support for specific PCs and Macs. You can download the PDF for free.

Intel hosts a search engine at its Thunderbolt site for certified TB3 and TB4 devices, but the hits are surprisingly sparse. The search tool claims that only three laptops have been TB4-certified, for example, although more than that are compliant.

Thunderbolt 4 cables are replacing our rat's nest of old USB-A and USB-C cables, in the same way that USB thumb drives once wiped out floppy disks. Until the transition is complete, however, we need to ask a lot of questions of any provider who claims to be offering full Thunderbolt compliance.

TakeControl Books Latest Issue

If you have purchased one of Apple’s new Macs with an M1 (Apple silicon) chip—or are considering doing so in the near future—our latest book will help you transition from your old Mac, take advantage of new features, and deal with a variety of limitations and surprises. Take Control of Your M-Series Mac by Glenn Fleishman tells you everything you need to know about this new type of Mac, and this compact (84-page) book is just $8.99.

Although M1 Macs mostly look and act like their Intel predecessors, they are significantly different when it comes to startup modes (including recovery mode), security, battery life, and bootable duplicates. You can run many iOS/iPadOS apps on your M1 Mac, and Apple’s Rosetta 2 technology lets you run most older Mac apps too. But Boot Camp is gone, and virtualization software has significant limits. The book walks you through all this and more, including a section with technical details of the new architecture, for those who are interested. And, since we know that the M1 chip is just the first in a series (with support for more powerful Macs coming soon), Glenn is planning to update the book to cover new Macs and new chips as they appear.

• Buy Take Control of Your M-Series Mac for just $8.99

or
• Learn more about this book

I’d also like to mention that Glenn has updated his book Take Control of Securing Your Mac. Version 1.1 adds more than 10 pages of details about security aspects of M-series Macs, plus additional information on passwords, FileVault, encrypting bootable duplicates, System Integrity Protection (SIP), and more.

Warm regards,

Joe Kissell
Publisher, Take Control Books

Apple Live Stream

If you have the Apple watch, here is an article from the Small Dog Electronics newsletter, "Kibble & Bytes", with some tips on how to improve the battery life of the watch...Jim

Jim Hamm

Seven Tips to Maximize Apple Watch Battery

One of my oldest friends, Larz Barber, who happens to be my financial guy, called me the other day to tell me that he solved his Apple Watch battery issue.  For weeks he was finding that even though he charged it up overnight it would not hold a charge all day.  His extreme solution, which definitely will work in many cases, was to go to the Watch app on your iPhone and unpair the Apple Watch and then re-pair it.   Too many people have sent their Apple Watches in for repair at Apple due to battery issues that might be solved by this or some other Apple Watch Battery tips. If you're having this issue, do try this resolution before anything else.

Apple Watches have a shorter battery life than many smart watches at about 18 hours of use but that is due to how much more sophisticated the Apple Watch is in comparison to others.  What others will allow you to answer your phone calls, send a text message, take an ECG and check your blood oxygen levels?  18 hours is actually a lot and will allow frequent time checks, app usage, music and phone calls. If you want to extend your battery life here are some tips:

  1. Turn off Display Always On

With the Apple Watch Series 5,  there is a feature which allows you to keep your screen always on. As you can imagine with Display Always On, your Apple Watch will eat up a lot more battery.

But older models of the Apple Watch also have extended screen on time functions.

To configure this setting:

1. Start the Watch app on your iPhone.

2. On the “My Watch” tab, tap “General.”

3. Tap “Wake Screen.”

4. Tap “Wake for 15 seconds.”

You can also turn off the Wake Screen on Wrist Rise feature. The screen automatically turns on any time it detects wrist movements such as typing on a keyboard. You can significantly improve it by turning this off.

2) Update to the latest Watch OS

Many times after an OS upgrade, people complain about battery life but in most cases that can be traced to some of the settings we are talking about here.  In general, updating to the latest Watch OS will improver your battery life.

  • To see if you need an update, open the Apple Watch app on your iPhone and go to My Watch > General > Software Update.

  • If an update is available, connect your iPhone to Wi-Fi, attach the charger to your Apple Watch (make sure it has at least 50% charge), and update wirelessly.

3) Watch BlueTooth, Wi-Fi and Cellular Useage

All Apple Watches have WiFI and Bluetooth connectivity. From the Apple Watch Series 3, you can also get cellular-enabled Apple Watches. All of these forms of connectivity use a lot of battery life, particularly cellular connections. If you are concerned about battery only turn on cellular when you need it (like when you do NOT have your iPhone in your pocket). Otherwise, continually dinging cell towers can quickly drain your battery. Likewise, you can save even more battery life by disabling the WiFI and Bluetooth connections through using Airplane Mode on your watch if you do not need those connections, or, if you are on a long plane flight (after the pandemic!).

4) Streaming Music on Your Apple Watch

It is probably a waste of valuable battery time to stream music from your watch when your iPhone is nearby!  Streaming music on your Apple Watch is a huge battery drain. The Apple Watch has 8-16 GB of storage, so download some music to it to save battery life and play those songs instead of going out to the net on Wi-Fi or cellular

  1. Open the Watch app on iPhone

  2. Tap the My Watch tab

  3. Tap Music

  4. Add Music from Playlists and Albums. You can also directly search through your library and tap to add songs.

5) Beware of Unnecessary Notifications

Getting notifications on your Apple Watch is one of its best features. Often times, it is how I first learn of an important text message or late breaking news. But remember, these notifications not only light up your screen, but also activate the Bluetooth, Wi-Fi or cellular functions on the Watch draining your battery.

In the  Apple Watch app on your iPhone turn off any notifications that you really do not need.

6) Stop Exercising :)

Okay, not really!

If you use your Apple Watch to exercise, Power Saving Mode is a great way to save battery life. If you are working out in a gym you can turn off the heart rate sensor while also not recording calories as accurately. Fortunately, most gyms have these metrics built-in to their cardio machines, and they’re nearly as accurate as the sensors in your Apple Watch.

To enable Power Saving Mode for the Workout app, go to the Settings app on your Apple Watch, tap General -> Workout, and turn on the switch next to Power Saving Mode.  Make sure you also end all workouts after you complete them. Your Apple Watch may still leave this feature on which will use additional battery life.

7) UnPair and Re-Pair the Apple Watch

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Getting back to Larz's issue.  None of the other suggestions made much headway in solving the battery issue so he went to a bigger hammer! One of  the most common causes of Apple Watch battery drain is OS update glitches. From connection disruption to rogue processes, un-pairing and unpairing your Apple Watch can get everything back to normal:

  1. Open the Watch app from your iPhone Home screen.

  2. Tap on your Apple Watch at the top of the screen.

  3. Tap the information button (looks like an “i” with a circle around it)

  4. Tap the Unpair Apple Watch.

  5. Tap Unpair Apple Watch to confirm.

You can also unpair directly on the Apple Watch:

  1. Press the Digital Crown to switch to the app launcher.

  2. Select the Settings app.

  3. Tap on General

  4. Tap on Reset at the bottom. Don’t worry you can reload all data from your last sync)

  5. Tap on Erase all contents and settings.

  6. Enter your Passcode to confirm.

Once you have unpaired your watch you can simply re-pair it like a new watch and then set-up your apps and settings to suit your lifestyle.

Dropbox Password Manager

I've been a fan and user of Dropbox for many years, and sure appreciate its storage features. Here's an article discussing a free password manager they soon will be offering. First off, I don't like the idea of storing my passwords on a server somewhere. Having said that, I like the feature that if Dropbox's servers should get hacked, the hackers still can't get into your stored passwords because your passwords are protected by your own, individual password.

Might be something to consider, if you are looking for a password manager -- and the price certainly is right.

Jim Hamm

Which Photo Editor?

I am promoting Affinity Photos now as the default editor to use for any serious photo editing. There’s an extension to Photos called External Editors For Photos ($1 in the App Store) that is needed if you open a photo in Photos and then want to edit it with Affinity Photos. The extension saves the edit back into Photos. Otherwise, you would have to save the edited image to a file and import it back into Photos. Affinity Photos is as complicated as Photoshop. There are dozens of free video tutorials both on the vendor’s website and in YouTube. The basics of photo editing in Photos is still quite useful, and just selecting the auto option for all tools might be sufficient. But to go beyond the basics, you need Affinity Photos that takes you into Layers and Masks. What’s handy about Affinity Photo is that you can configure the layout to look exactly like Photoshop. Affinity Photo works the same for both Mac and Windows. If you are into astrophotography, there are special tools built-in just for that with additional free macros available. The real advantage of Affinity Photo is editing in real time - to see the changes to the image as you make an adjustment. Affinity Photo also works on the iPad. The base price for Affinity Photo is $50.

Pixelmator Pro is another photo editor alternative and works quite well with Photos as an external editor without the need for the Photos extension “External Editors For Photos” to save the image back into Photos. Pixelmator Pro doesn’t have as many features as Affinity Photos. The layout for Pixelmator Pro is quite different than Photoshop, and for some it might actually be easier to adjust to. Some of the features in Pixelmator Pro might be easier to work with than similar features in Affinity Photo. Pixelmator Pro is designed exclusively for the Mac, and it also works on the iPad. The base price for Pixelmator Pro is $40.

Both of the above work with the new M1-powered Macs, and both are available in the App Store.


John R Carter Sr



How Real is the M1 mac SSD Excess Wear..Short Life Issue?

Macworld said it is not a serious problem but suggested doubling the base RAM and SSD as insurance.

Let me defer to a 2014 article on this subject (https://computers.tutsplus.com/tutorials/how-to-check-and-enable-trim-on-a-mac-ssd--mac-60738):

You may have noticed that even though you buy SSDs of a certain capacity, you have much less space actually available to use. A typical 256GB SSD will have only about 240GB available for use, for instance.

The reason is that SSD manufacturers set aside a percentage of the drive’s space for the firmware to use as a buffer for Garbage Collection and other maintenance tasks. This is called Over-Provisioning and it’s necessary for making sure that the drive’s performance doesn’t degrade significantly as it fills up.

As a general rule, the more free space there is on an SSD, the better it will perform.

It makes sense to me not to let the free space on an SSD get below 20% for a variety of reasons. Even accessing a spinning drive slows down a lot when the free space gets below 10GB. The drive is used for more than just storing your files. There is a a need for temporary cache, log files come and go, Time Machine needs space to store temporary backups of incremental changes made to anything, there is definitely a requirement for a dedicated swap space, and there is a need for a minimum amount of 20GB for any major OS upgrade. So yes, having a lot of free storage space is very important, and I think that less than 100GB of free space for any size SSD is pushing it.

Keep in mind that the SSD lifetime is marked by read/write cycles, not by how much you put on it or how long it is used.

How storage is accessed on an SSD is very different than how it is done on a spinning drive. Once you write on a cell, you can’t just write over it with new data, so deleting a file leaves a “hole” that can’t be written to until TRIM does its thing (see my NOTE below). This is also called garbage collection. TRIM periodically goes through the entire storage area reorganizing the entire block where there is a hole. This process uses read/write activity, which ultimately reduces the number of read/write cycles left. Finally, TRIM only works when the computer is idle, and that’s another reason to not turn off the computer when you’re not using it. Let the display go to sleep, but not the computer.

What the news isn’t talking about is how long you can leave your computer turned off before an SSD starts losing its data. In order to keep the data on the SSD, it needs power to refresh the state of every active cell (this is not a read/write cycle). Without refreshing, an active cell just might revert back to its steady state value.

https://www.digitalcitizen.life/simple-questions-what-trim-ssds-why-it-useful/

ssd_trim_2.png

My recommended settings for Energy Saver:

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If you have external hard drives attached, allowing them to sleep reduces energy consumption, but it also means you have to wait for it to spin up before you can access it. So that’s a choice for the user. But not letting the computer go to sleep should not be an option.

Rebooting a computer probably needs to be done once a week.

Turning off a computer probably only needs to be done when you know you’re not going to be using it for more than a day.

A computer with an SSD placed in storage for months might not mean it will still have all files intact the next time you turn it on.

NOTE: TRIM used to be an application that had to be enabled in an OS if an SSD was installed. Most new SSD’s today have TRIM built in to the device making it unnecessary to enable TRIM in the OS. All SSD’s made by Crucial have TRIM built in. It would not be wise to enable the OS copy of TRIM if the SSD has TRIM built in.

I have not seen a case where TRIM is required to be installed and enabled on any Mac computer since as far back as 2014.

When I swap out a hard drive with an SSD or add an external SSD, I only use Crucial drives. Other vendors, such as Samsung and OWC, are known to have TRIM in the SSD. It may now be the case for all vendors, but I have not confirmed it.

One myth about preserving or “restoring” an SSD is to reformat it now and then. DON’T! This only subtracts from the available read/write cycles. If you need to “recycle” or repurpose an SSD, just delete what is on it. TRIM will take care of “wiping” the disk. Since there is no magnetic “residue” on an SSD like there is on a spinning drive, there is no chance of recovering “lost” data in an SSD once TRIM has done its job.

John R Carter Sr

VPN Vulnerability

This past year we haven't traveled or had the necessity of using a VPN on public wifi, but with the vaccine inoculating more people, that, hopefully, will soon change. In times past I've used a VPN often, and have purchased several. This article discusses a vulnerability in several VPNs, most of which are free. Should you have an interest in reading more about this, following are a couple of links to take a look at:

https://blog.malwarebytes.com/cybercrime/privacy/2021/03/21-million-free-vpn-users-data-exposed/

https://www.vpnmentor.com/blog/report-free-vpns-leak/#Timeline-of-Discovery-and-Owner-Reaction

I don't like the concept of using a free VPN -- or a free "anything", for that matter -- as how can one expect a company to provide an expensive service for 'free'? I purchase any VPN I use, and do not pick an obscure VPN, as most of the ones in the article are. I read reviews of any VPN I'm interested in.

Anyway, if you do use a VPN, be cautious in what you use.

Jim Hamm